Margaret's garden clogs and trowelI’M LIKE THE KID in the backseat on the way to the amusement park, with my one incessant question: “Are we there yet?” Intensifying light and the sounds of early March—yes, those are the first serious bird songs of the new season—will do that to a person. Already woodpeckers have started drumming emphatically, and songbirds clearing their throats forecast that it is nearly spring again. There is much to do in the garden in the month of March, but not so fast:

Except in frost-free zones, there are really two March chores lists: one labeled, “If frozen…” and the other, “If thawed…” Many tasks are only to be started if and when the snow melts, the ground defrosts, and mud starts to drain off and dry. If and when. Don’t walk or work in soggy soil, or trod on sodden or frozen lawns unnecessarily. Love your soil, and protect it. Plus: delaying cleanup a little bit is better for beneficial insects and spiders who are overwintering. More on that below.

And there is also more, even farther down the page, on when to start seeds, too. Some of that process isn’t reliant on outdoor conditions, thankfully. My Seed Starting Calculator Tool tells you when for your zone, for flowers, herbs and vegetables.

garden elsewhere? regional links

THE ORGANIC-GARDENING approach and the how-to tips I offer here will apply most anywhere–pruning a rose or sowing a tomato seed is similar, wherever the rose or tomato may grow. But the when is not the same. To help adjust the timing: My garden is in Zone 5B, in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA) area, where frost can persist well into May and return in October. You may need next month’s chores, or last month’s (the archive is here). For more Zone-specific advice, I’ve rounded up a links to calendars and checklists from around the nation (and the U.K.). Again, I encourage reading on first, because I’m betting there’s something here for you, wherever you may dig, weed, or prune.

W E’VE HAD a bit of winter lately this time around, in 2020-21, but as the month begins the long-range forecast is for more thawing, which feels welcome. I vote for an early spring! I don’t recall last year’s pattern, and didn’t write it down, but my notes say there was a bit of everything here so far the winter of 2018-19, with multiple weeks featuring temperatures in the minus range then up near 60 in a day or two. Swings are the new normal: 2017-18 featured-two weeks of sustained bitter cold, but also several notable up-and-down dramas, including 73F that February (and down to the teens just days later). I had a bit of winter in 2016-17, an improvement after 2015-16’s “winter” that had been nothing wintry at all. Chaos is the new pattern. Not good; such unfamiliar times.

For a read on “is it spring yet?” that’s based on data, not anecdotes, the USA National Phenology Network’s maps are worth a visit. They call the process of tracking the progress of spring “Springcasting,” and here it how it works.

No matter the weather or other plant and animal hints outside, certain seeds need starting indoors (more on that below).

Days are noticeably longer (calculate how long for your location) and will seem more so when we awaken to changed clocks on Sunday, March 14, 2021 in Daylight Savings Time (in effect until Sunday, November 7).

My best advice this month is to make like a daffodil. Poke your head up and have a look around—but be prepared to abort the mission, perhaps several times, and even get snowed on. Be nimble, ready to act when the forces are willing, but be patient, too, especially up North.

short course: the 8 earliest early spring chores

I START MY CLEANUP near the house, generally, working out from there, so I don’t get overwhelmed and can see encouraging progress up-close, where I spend most of my time. But some tasks cannot wait, wherever they are located:

  1. Rake debris carefully off beds that hold earliest bloomers first, like where bulbs are trying to push up through sodden leaves and such, or where triilliums and other ephemerals are growing. (See the next section, after this list, for why to delay big cleanup until a stretch of fair days, in support of beneficial insects and other arthropods.)
  2. Also target earliest bloomers like Euphorbia for immediate cutbacks. Nudge them to push anew from the base with a severe end-of-winter haircut. Even later bloomers that grow from dense, cushion-like crowns (as Sedum spectabile ‘Autumn Joy’ does) will be easier to clean up now than once they start to push.
  3. Cut back evergreen or otherwise-persistent perennial foliage. Leaves of European ginger (Asarum europaeum), Helleborus, and Epimedium, for instance, will soon be replaced with a fresh flush. Yes, the plant will do just fine even if you leave it on, but many with early blooms are better viewed minus all the nasty old foliage.
  4. Cut down ornamental grasses. Mice and other garden undesirables are thinking it’s the Maternity Ward in there, I fear, so off with their heads (the grasses’, that is), right by the base, ASAP.
  5. Empty bird boxes. Bluebirds won’t accept a dirty box, and I always hope for at least one family a year. Wear a glove when you do this task; more than one nesting mouse has run up my arm in the process. Ugh. Be a great bluebird landlord, like this.
  6. Muck fallen leaves from water gardens. This annual ritual, accomplished gently and mindfully with endless swoops of a fish net, may dig up more than debris (like salamanders, wood frog eggs, tadpoles). I’ll get the filters and pumps running, too, once sub-freezing nights cease. My regimen of spring water-garden tips.
  7. Order bulk mulch from a local source for delivery—skipping all those plastic bags, and all that fuel used trucking bark chips across the nation. What makes good mulch, and how to use it.
  8. This is an indoor chore, but mission-critical: Prevent stretched, leggy seedlings by reading this. (My “when to start what” seed calculator will tell you the proper dates, and there is more seed-specific information below. All my seed gear is here.)

be environmentally conscious

DELAY RAKING A FEW DAYS, to support beneficial insects. “Wait until after several 50-degree-Fahrenheit spring days to clean up again,” advised The Habitat Network (the former program from Cornell and the Nature Conservancy). Doug Tallamy agrees. Some overwintering insects, notably bees and certain butterflies and moths, are triggered by a steady stream of 50-degree days to get moving. Once they do, often after resting in leaf litter or under tree bark or even inside goldenrod galls, for example, they’re no longer as vulnerable to our spring cleaning actions that might kill them, or move them away from their host plant.

FIRST, FOCUS. What’s your goal for the year, or your mantra? “Dig in.” That was the promise I made to myself one recent New Year, and my garden mandate, too. I’d sworn to finally tackle the long-neglected, oldest parts of the garden, right in front of the house. But the forces of nature (life!) keep throwing me off course and otherwise distracting me. The following year my motto was “Don’t stop now,” and frankly, even though I didn’t stop, I’m still at it. So I guess if I’m being honest, that rallying cry continues: Onward! My garden resolutions for 2020, made with my friend and regular podcast guest Ken Druse, reflected that spirit, and the need to focus to avoid overwhelm. “One area at a time,” we agreed.

AS 2020 SLID into 2021, I voiced my latest resolutions in my column in “The New York Times,” and they had a lot to do with eradicating too-lusty non-native groundcovers, like Lamiastrum and more. Even if all I muster in some spots this spring is the cleanout phase, and slathering a thick layer of mulch on top of the newly bared or at least tidied-up areas (perhaps with some cardboard beneath it)—so be it. Progress, not perfection (as they say in 12-Step programs).

START A NATURALIST’S NOTEBOOK: With Dr. Nathaniel Wheelwright, I also got advice on keeping a journal of nature observations, and on generally becoming a keener observer–a better naturalist. Like this.

IS YOUR COMPOSTING operation just not yielding enough, or taking too much work?  Nobody does it better than my friend Lee Reich, who composts like this, or Daryl Beyers, who taught me the secret of pit composting–yes, not in a pile, but in a series of pits or trenches. So effective! My goal is to turn mine more often so it heats up more, in hopes of reducing live weed seeds in the finished compost.

wildlife-gardening chores

WANT MORE WILDLIFE, including birds? Here’s how to create a bird-friendly garden, and also a Q&A with wildlife ecologist Doug Tallamy of the University of Delaware on creating backyard habitat. Speaking of wildlife magnets: Will this be the year you add water, whether in-ground or simply an easy, seasonal trough like this?

SICK OF DEER? Maybe it’s time to plan for upgrades in deer control. If by this point in winter you have tired of deer damage, perhaps this will be the year you fence the yard, or at least a key area, using one of these approaches. Also: deer-thwarting advice from Ohio State’s wildlife expert.

SICK OF MOWING? Less lawn means space for more diverse plantings, and therefore support of more wildlife diversity from insects on up. Do you want to mow differently (as I started doing years ago to good result)?

starting those seeds

I ASSUME by now you’ve shopped for seeds, but confession: Usually around now I still have orders to submit. After getting shut out on some items at the start of the pandemic in 2020, I ordered extra-early this time around.

MY ONGOING SEED SERIES—in stories and podcasts—might introduce some varieties and sellers you haven’t “met” before. Plus, there’s a relatively new brand name in some catalogs: OSSI or Open Source Seed Initiative; go investigate.

WHEN TO START WHAT?  My seed calculator tool will help time sowings properly, no matter where you live. Don’t rush. Stout, sturdy seedlings are better than older, leggy ones for transplanting. For perspective: I don’t start tomatoes here in Zone 5B until mid-April.

HOW I START SEED INDOORS is outlined here, plus why I carry my babies outdoors on fair days. Do you have fresh seed-starting medium (not potting soil–that’s too coarse for seeds) and flats, trays, pots, labels? My go-to seed-starting gear is rounded up at this link.

STUDY UP on how to grow growing specific vegetables from seed, before you get started:

PREVENT DAMPING OFF, a fungal disease that kills seedlings, by starting with clean containers and sterile soilless germinating mix. Wash flats, cell packs or pots with a 1:10 solution of bleach:water, or hot, soapy water. My friend Ken Druse fights damping off this clever way. and he and I reviewed our seed-starting how-to’s, from what mix we use to oddball things we grow from seed, in this podcast.

FIRST SEEDS FIRST: Only leeks and onions get going indoors under lights before mid-month in my Zone 5B area, but after that, the pace quickens and I sow first batches of cool-season crops such as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi and Brussels sprouts, to set outside six weeks later. I wouldn’t be without ‘Piracicaba’ and also spigariello, a leaf broccoli, for example.

garden-design to-do’s

SPUR IDEAS for landscape enhancements by re-reading past interviews with garden designers (or listening to archived podcasts of those Q&As). They’re all here: DIY garden-design advice.

DEVELOP A SIGNATURE STYLE with help from landscape designer Susan Morrison, who offers these tips for getting started: how each of us can look at our own spaces with a designer’s eye; about breaking up too-boxy rectangular spaces to bring life into them; about use of color and other elements, and also when to call a friend in for a fresh set of eyes.

ARE POLKA-DOTS dominating your ornamental gardens—you know, lots of “onesies” (a single plant of each kind, instead of an impactful group or drift of each variety)? Lately I forced myself to divide plants and repeat sweeps elsewhere–rather than buy so many new one-off’s. That work continues.

IS THERE NOTHING going on in the “offseason” visually among your perennials? Perhaps rethink your choices to emphasize November-onward, with help from Ben Futa, who reminds us that brown is a color, too (and texture is a pretty great thing).


WARM-SEASON CROPS such as tomatoes don’t get sown here indoors in Zone 5B until April 15. Patience! If you are already at tomato-starting time, read on. I prefer not to plant tomatoes or potatoes, in particular, in the same place, to help avoid tomato troubles. Rotation isn’t enough, though, so I’ll follow tips from tomato breeder Tom Stearns for better “tomato hygiene,” too, and his insights on getting the best-flavored fruit.

CRAIG LEHOULLIER is called the NC Tomato Man, and is author of the hit book “Epic Tomatoes.” Here are his favorite tomatoes–including some from the Dwarf Tomato Project–smaller in stature but no less delicious.

other vegetable garden prep

DON’T CULTIVATE till soil is beginning to be crumbly, not sodden, which might even be April in my area. When the time arrives, turn in (or top dress with) several inches of compost. Expert Lee Reich never turns it in, or otherwise cultivates; here’s why.

KEEP THE PHRASE “as soon as the ground can be worked” in mind, and when it can, focus first efforts on spots where must-be-planted-early things will go. Examples: plants that are sold “bare-root,” such as asparagus crowns, or raspberries, strawberries or rhubarb, for instance, and even roses from some suppliers. Onion and shallot seedlings or sets, and seed potatoes tend to show up early, too.

ANOTHER EARLY ROW to prep: for peas or spinach or other things I direct sow soon. Double back and make ready for tomato transplants later, but cool-season crops can’t wait as long for a home. How to grow spinach–and peas, too, whose big, fat seeds here in Zone 5B go in sometime between the third week of March and the second week of April. I have lately been trying many new varieties of peas, giving them more space than ever in the garden.

STRAW BALES, ANYONE? Will this be the year you try growing some crops in straw bales, to take advantage of sunny spots where there might be no soil (like along a driveway) or provide a sterile growing medium for soil-disease-sensitive things like certain heirloom tomatoes? Craig LeHoullier teaches us how.

PULL AND DIG PERENNIAL and biennial weeds when possible, such as garlic mustard, before they get a foothold. Help with weed ID and management.

COLLECT CARDBOARD AND NEWSPAPER while you wait for full-on garden season, to smother areas for new beds, or thwart weeds under fresh mulch in existing ones. Going a step further: learn about solarization and tarping for weed control.


HOUSEPLANTS ARE AWAKE again, nudged by longer days and stronger light. They will need more moisture and an occasional half-strength fertilizing, but overwatering is still the biggest danger to their health; feel around in the soil for guidance on when they need more. Be brutal with any leggy messes: haircut time.

KEEP AN EYE OUT for signs of pests like spider mites, mealybugs, and scale insects. If tackled promptly, nonchemical methods work: a simple shower, insecticidal soap spray (as directed on label) or with the most tenacious (like mealybugs) sometimes an alcohol swab and Q-tip.

ADOPT SOME EASY ORCHIDS if you need a burst of color before the garden really awakens. Longwood Gardens’ orchid grower Greg Griffis demystifies orchid-growing, and suggests the best adoptees.

trees & shrubs

I’M HOPING TO FINISH UP fruit-tree pruning (here’s how), and this month some clematis, most roses, buddleia, Hydrangea paniculata and more. My pruning FAQ is here. Remember that if you prune early bloomers such as lilacs now, you’ll have fewer flowers this spring; wait until just after bloom.

AS FOR THOSE CLEMATIS, here’s how to prune them.

I’M STARTING gradually to cut back twig willows like this and also twig dogwoods, but I’m still enjoying their show. With pussy willows, for instance, right after bloom is good cutback timing. The willows are so vigorous, I’ll coppice them (cutting to 1-2 inches from the ground to rejuvenate).

PRUNE GRAPE VINES to no more than four fruiting canes with 7 to 10 buds apiece.

THINKING OF BLUEBERRIES? Have greater success by following this blueberry-growing primer.

CUT OUT CANES OF raspberries that have borne fruit, and any that are thinner than a pencil. Shorten the remaining young canes by at least a foot.

WHILE OUT THERE PRUNING, I’ll make a list of beds that will get simplified with the use of some favorite groundcovers, for instance.

FORCE BRANCHES. Early blooming pussy willow, forsythia, apple and cherry are all good candidates, and branches can be cut once their buds begin to swell. Also try shrubby clove currant, the so-called Cornelian cherry, Cornus mas, and pear, beeches, birches, and redbuds. No big surprise: The closer to actual bloom date, the higher forcing success. Gather branches–taking judicious prunings, not disfiguring plants–then prepare by splitting the bottom inch or two with a knife or pruner, or hammering ends gently to split them for better water uptake. Prepped branches go in a bucket of water in my cool mudroom out of the light, draped with a plastic bag, until the buds push off their coverings, then move to a warmer, brighter room.

SOMETIME BETWEEN December and March, the intermediate witch-hazels will try to bloom (mine began last December and mostly finished by February this winter).  Other extra-early blooming shrubs in my garden include the pussy willow called Salix chaenomeloides. Consider adding them to yours.

ALWAYS BE on the lookout for dead, damaged, diseased wood in trees and shrubs and prune them out as discovered. Remove suckers and water sprouts, too.

SCOUT FOR VIBURNUM BEETLE egg cases on bare viburnum twigs October through April. Remove cases by pruning off affected wood to reduce larvae and beetle issues. The bump-like cases are usually on the underside of youngest twigs. (I also watch in May for larvae hatch and rub the twigs then to squash the emerging pests I missed.)

VOLE AND MOUSE PATROL CONTINUES, in perpetuity: I am still setting out mousetraps under my special homemade boxes in the gardens where I see any activity, to reduce them in my beds and borders. Never use mothballs in the garden, anywhere.

flower garden

FEED SPRING BULBS with an appropriate all-natural organic fertilizer as green tips push through the ground.

LIKE TUBEROUS BEGONIAS? Get them going indoors this month for setting outside after the weather settles. Start in trays of moistened vermiculite or fast-draining potting soil, then pot up individually in a month or so. Grow in a bright, warm spot. More on tuberous begonias. Also: I start my cannas that way, too, though a bit later, and dahlias–especially oldtime varieties.

ANNUAL POPPIES like these can also be sown now, right in the garden (or indoors). Don’t disturb them during cleanup if you direct sow, or have a patch that self-sows.

chores for other regions

REMEMBER: My chores are timed for the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA) area where I live, which is Zone 5B. Adjust your timing to suit your zone, or use one of these calendars from elsewhere, on this page.

  1. Shelley says:

    Yay for MARCH garden chores! This year I have an “IF THAWED” list… Woohoo! Am I the only nut that gets this excited about chores?! Haha

  2. Scarlett says:

    Are we there yet? Yes. March is here. Love your style, it is so much fun to read your blog. I have to print it. So many tips to remember. Thank you!

  3. Linda says:

    Oh my, aren’t we so excited! Plants are starting to pop up all over, tiny buds are forming on our shrubs and trees (oh yes, have to go out and check to see if those tiny nubs are there yet), the birds are starting to chirp and my mind is working a mile a minute just thinking about being outdoors this Spring! Oh no, snow scheduled this Friday! Thank you so much for your very, very informative blog, it’s been my absolute for gardening know how.

  4. Dolores Boule says:

    Congratulations, Margaret!
    I want to prevent, this year, those tiny green worms that fell from, I think, our Oak trees,
    only to eat all the rose leaves and ruin rose season.
    Any particular spray I can put on now to prevent this?

  5. Lynda Brenner says:

    Tx for all the wonderful info.
    Do you have a lead, that you can share, on a good local farmer for compost. I’m in Hillsdale.

  6. Donna says:

    Everything in my garden is still covered by 2′ of snow. This week’s warm weather should help that, but we have many big snows even in April up here in Northern Minnesota. This article was just what I needed to get me out of my winter doldrums. Hope springs eternal!!

  7. Anne Allbeury-Hock says:

    Hi Margaret. As always it is such a treat to read your blog. Congratulations on the 1st from BH & G. How do I relate your 5B to my 7B zone? I am into clean up right now. I need to prune the Knock Out roses…but when> I use them as a hedge along the street. They are really spectacular..but too big right now. I am redesigning in the back yard. Less lawn! Thanks and a
    hug from Anne (Douglaston)

  8. Jane Pinckney says:

    Hi Margaret,
    I would love to know where you got the red ‘clogs’. the only ones I have found are soft plastic.
    The red ones look tough, like ones I bought 20 years ago.
    Any suggestions?
    Jane Pinckney

  9. Ruhi says:

    Margaret your blog and links get me through winter. I am upstate NY zone 6. We did extensive fall clean up with leaves, but some pesky piles remained. I got out out there and did some of the hellebore clean. Now i am wondering if the old leaves would have protected the flowers that are up. .It is now 18 degrees and snow is expected. Leaves are back in places they were cleared from.As soon as the weather cooperates we will clean up in a few days. Last year the Daffs were up and i was feeding them by now. This year they are up, its gotten super cold and I am not sure if they will slow down some so i can feed them once we have re cleared later this week? We had an 80 mile an hour gust windstorm and a 70 foot oak down 2 days ago.
    Trying to figure out gardening in march when the temp is 20 degrees above normal and then 20 degrees below. I know there are narrow windows for some things but hopefully bulbs can hang in for their spring feed. The wild temperature swings mean that every year is a new experiment in timing. last year my new quince budded and then buds froze off.
    Maybe time for a spring cloak idea for the late winter/ early spring plants?

    1. margaret says:

      Hi, Ruhi. I find that the bigger bulbs that are up but not in bloom yet do just fine; sometimes the smaller things already in flower just get tattered by the violent weather. But I don’t worry about the daffodil foliage. Our weather here has been low single digits and as high as 70 within days. Total madness.

  10. Elizabeth says:

    Thank you for the inspirational talk at WMMGA today. I didn’t have a chance to meet you or ask my question about seed storage.
    I’ve over the years always counted on my seed serving me for year after year, which they seem to do, but maybe with less vigor as you pointed out today.
    Am I doing a disservice to my seeds by keeping them in airtight containers in my cold mudroom? Do they need to breathe?

    1. margaret says:

      Thanks for the kind words, Elizabeth. No, you are correct — dry, cool and airtight is good because then change in humidity don’t get to them. Here is more about how long seeds last.

  11. AnnE says:

    In your Feb 19 podcast with Ken Druse you seemed to indicate that wood mulch was not a good thing vs. your newsletter today voicing your support of using wood mulch. Have you changed your position? If so, why?

    1. margaret says:

      Hi, Ann. No change of heart. I use a fine-textured mulch made from horse and cow stable bedding, which does start as wood but is quite fine-textured, and then the animals soil it and then it gets mucked out, piled up, and composted hot. As I said when Ken and I spoke, I only use actually chunks/big chips in the occasional pathway. The link in the Chores column about mulch takes you to what I consider good mulch — no big hunks! — and that is here.

  12. Bill Plummer says:

    I do NOT rake debris from my garden beds. I guess I am a casual, care-free gardener. Any twigs remain, larger branches are removed, leaves remain. With my advancing age and limited endurance, I may or may not cut back epicedium or hellebore foliage. As you said it is not necessary. My bulbs and trilliums push up through the leaves, sometimes through them. I do not nor have I ever bought mulch, Leaves are my mulch. The one thing I did yesterday was to use my blower=vac to remove leaves from where the winds had deposited them such as my foundation and the base of my walls.
    . I have a narrow strip above my rock wall before my woods begin. I do remove needles and leaves from my alpine plants in this bed.

    1. margaret says:

      Sounds like a great system, Bill, on many fronts, and that the beneficial insects will love you (plus nothing is going to waste, nor is energy being wasted).

    1. margaret says:

      If you mean flowering quince shrubs, Chaenomeles speciosa, they bloom on old wood so I’d prune if needed right after bloom. Missouri Botanical has a short explanation of how/why here. Or maybe you have a quince tree?

  13. Jacquelyn H-M says:

    The advice to ‘wait for a string of 50 degree days’ before cleaning up garden beds can be confusing. When I recommended it in a lecture to a garden club, one member of the audience said ‘Oh, so we can do it now’ because we’d had a warm spell in February. So I think the advice has to be modified to say ‘when the weather is consistently warming up in spring, and there has been a string of days over 50 degrees’ or something similar.

    As for hellebores, I’ve found there are 2 approaches that work best. Either cut back all the old foliage BEFORE the flower buds emerge, or wait until the flower stalks have lengthened and the old foliage lays down on the ground (this is easiest for me). If you try to prune the old foliage while the buds are emerging and the old stems are still upright, it’s just too easy to cut off the flower stems.

    1. margaret says:

      Thanks, Jacquelyn. And yes, that is what she meant — a stretch in the 50s when it’s not a freakish weather anomaly in February. : ) I have never done the hellebores exactly at the second time you mention–of course I have been late with some plants and I suppose they have been closer to that point. Will have to try that.

  14. Deborah H says:

    I always know that I can count on your very thorough monthly gardening chore lists to make sure I don’t miss any “must do” chores around my garden. Thank you! In VA I see that the forsythias are blooming (already) and I need to start planning for a crabgrass pre-emergent treatment application. Do you do anything special with your grassy areas to prevent weeds?

    1. margaret says:

      I don’t use any pre-emergent herbicides (or any chemicals of any kind) so it’s tricky to fight some lawn weeds. But with crabgrass (an annual) it loves bare and thin spots, where the seeds ripened and dropped last fall can now germinate, so overseeding/keeping the lawn thick reduces those. A long time ago I did an interview with an expert in this subject (who no longer has the nonprofit organic lawn organization he did back then…but the info is good). That’s here.

  15. Sean says:

    I have a question about Azolla. I would like to make a seasonal trough. It would be about the size of the smaller one you pictured. How many do I purchase (from the site you linked)?

    Thank you

    1. margaret says:

      Hi, Sean. Lately I have been getting it from Waterford Gardens in NJ by mail order. Because I have two in-ground larger water gardens plus the troughs I order a lot…but I think one or two portions would be plenty to coat that size in no time (it multiplies).

  16. pam says:

    I look forward to your postings every weekend! The variety of topics , lively suggestions and expert advice. Thank you so much!

  17. Carole C says:

    Here in the Berkshires it’s either snow covering everything or the limbs and tree trunks that came down during that blustery wind last week! It doesn’t look like anything on your list, the list I so look forward to reading, will get done until the ground thaws and these huge limbs can be cut and removed. Oh, and then there’s the prediction of 10 inches of new snow tonight! But, spring always comes and I will be patient M

    1. margaret says:

      Yes, I am on the border of Berkshire County so I hear you! I am impatient and so eager for even a day outside in the sunshine, even if all bundled up. Still to slippery here to be safe (and too cold).

  18. Ev says:

    I eagerly await your email – always interesting, always something to learn!
    Right now the ground is soggy and many areas are still snow covered
    , but the garden clubs i belong to are sending put their order forms for their fund raisers (plant sales) and the catalogs are appearing in the mail box.
    Spring must be coming!!!!! Hurrah!!!

  19. Pam Collins says:

    Thanks for your wonderful podcast! I love it as well as your book.

    Is it really ok to cut back the euphorbia, hellebores and ginger in early March? They are my favorite plants in the garden as they do so well here!! I am in Massachusetts- 1 hour west of Boston. I usually wait a little longer….



  20. Lisa says:

    Wow, this is the the most comprehensive March garden to-do list I’ve seen by far! I always have that mix of eagerness combined with caution in cleaning up at this time of year, and there’s always something new to learn about the best way to approach it. Thanks so much for all your great insights

  21. Von says:

    Hi Margaret thankyou for your blog although I live in Ireland I find the advice you give very valuable and of great use.

  22. Ruth Heespelink says:

    Love the witch hazels. Mine should have its own facebook page as it has a following here along the sidewalk in the suburbs.
    Also out are little yellow Eranthus.

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