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  1. florentina says:

    I just discovered your podcast and enjoyed your interview with Matt. Also subscribed to your newsletter.
    I have seen a photo of Erythronium Denis Canis Purple King and hope to find a place to get some of those bulbs. Peonies are also on my list.

  2. Eric says:

    Hi Margaret!

    I love listening to your podcasts and find myself going back to reference your books as well. I have one question that I haven’t been able to find a clear answer on. This year I am doing more growing from seed with annuals, Perennials and my veggies of course. But what I am never sure on is when we start the seeds in a germination soil mix, at what point do we need to put it in another nutrient based soil mix to continue to grow, or do they go straight from that germination soil mix to outdoors in the ground preferably so it is a balance on seed starting time to your frost date? Help! :)

    Looking to take away some learning this next year, – Eric

    1. margaret says:

      Hi, Eric. With vegetables and annuals that might be four or 6 weeks or so before transplant (from lettuce and tomatoes to zinnias and such) I just sow in germination mix then transplant the babies wit their little rootballs outside at the right time after hardening off gradually. With a perennial that might be nurtured for much longer, it will probably require potting up to larger quarters along the way — and for that I use potting soil. Likewise if I were going to grow a tomato seedling to a much larger size than the cellpack cell before transplanting, I might use potting soil (but I put my tomatoes out at 6 weeks or so, still smallish — other people grow them longer and larger). No matter what, I never buy potting soil (or germinating mix) with chemical fertilizers in them.

  3. Fred Boatwright says:

    Read your interesting article on deer-proof gardens on NY Times. Any advice on cats? I have desert landscaping in my yard which is basically just sand and small gravel. The cats make mounds all over the yard. The Phoenix area is so dry the turds dry out and stay there forever but the stink doesn’t go away. I have tried all the repellents at Home Depot and pet stores. They don’t work. I bought an expensive but cheaply made motion detector that works until the cats learn to dump just outside its range. Plus I have to remember to shut off the water and drain the pressure every morning to keep the hose from bursting. The cats only come around during the night.

    1. margaret says:

      They are impossible as you have found, and you have tried the recommended steps (other than resurfacing every square inch with some material they don’t like, which is impossible). Are they feral cats or someone’s pets? If feral maybe they need trapping and taking to a shelter; if a neighbor’s pets the neighbors might have to manage this behavior. Wish there was a good answer.

      1. Fred Boatwright says:

        They are both feral and pets. A neighbor traps them, has them fixed and lets them go. She also feeds them. I have found that cleaning up the turds and placing an obstruction to force picking a new spot helps some. It must frustrate them.

        1. margaret says:

          And I thought my local raccoons and their persistent urge to set up a “scat latrine” on my front porch was a nuisance!

      2. M L Whiffin says:

        I love my garden and my cats (we have two ferals outside that we care for). Feral cats definitely need to be trapped and fixed so they do not continue to breed and overpopulate (and in the context of this thread, make matters worse for gardeners). Trap-Neuter-Release (TNR) is the accepted method by which feral cats are treated. The left ear is ‘tipped’ (the very tip of ear is trimmed) at time of surgery to show they have been sterilized. In my area–NW New Mexico–feral cats that are trapped and taken to our shelter are euthanized promptly. If the cat is tipped it is returned to the area where it was trapped. Please research TNR–there may even be a group in your area–to learn more. I don’t mean to go off on a tangent, but this issue is much larger than cats ruining gardens.

  4. Rose says:

    Margaret, I recently learned that neonicotinoids persist in plants they were used on. Will it also affect the seeds from that plant? For example, I have coneflower that was given to me by a neighbor. I have no idea if neonicotinoids were used. I leave the seeds for goldfinch and plant some of the seed to extend the coneflower garden. This neonic thing is freaking me out. All of my gardens may contain it! Should I start replacing everything? I’m starting to grow from seed now because so many plant sellers don’t know if neonics were used. Argh!

  5. Bill says:

    The terms pesticide and herbicide are commingled in your NYT article. They are two very different things. Herbicides kill plants, pesticides kill bugs.

    1. margaret says:

      Hi, Bill. Actually the EPA considers herbicides one type of pesticide; that is the scientific definition. They says it is any substance or mixture of substances intended for preventing, destroying, repelling or mitigating any pest–bacteria, fungus, insect, other animal, plant pest etc. More on that.

  6. diane says:

    Hi Margaret,

    Have you touched on the topic of trying to find peat-free horticultural products? I have been binge-watching Gardener’s World and the UK is trying to go peat-free in the next few years. Has it become an issue in the horticultural world in the US? I normally obtain potting mix for a good number of containers from a local farm and garden nursery. The brand I have been using contains primarily Canadian peat. They did some research but could not find a source for a comparable peat-free product.

    Thank you, diane

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