MY FIRST EXPLORATION INTO growing garlic was also my first encounter with Filaree Farm. I hate to confess how long it has been since I first read “Growing Great Garlic,” the popular book by Filaree’s founding farmer, Ron Engeland (hint: publication date, 1991). Today, it’s Alley Swiss who farms the venerable Filaree acreage in Okanogan, Washington, where organically grown seed garlic has been produced for 25 years. In between his daunting chore list—Alley harvests more than 20,000 pounds of Allium sativum a season, representing a staggering 100-plus varieties from around the world—he made time to answer all my garlic-growing questions, from the best varieties for various regions, tastes from hot to mild, and more. (And to spice up the deal: I bought some copies of “Growing Great Garlic” and a couple of gift certificates for seed garlic to share with you!)
my q&a with alley swiss
Q. In my Zone 5B Northeastern location, I have done very well with hardneck varieties (detail above, and growing in my raised beds, top photo). As a seller of garlic to customers all over the U.S., can you suggest the best variety choices for different regions?
A. Many people don’t know that they can grow garlic where they live. At Filaree Farm, we have heard from customers who have grown both hardneck and softneck varieties in every state, including Hawaii and Alaska.
To clarify, garlic varieties are often divided into either softneck or hardneck with different varietal groupings within those two categories that share common traits. The key difference is that hardneck varieties send up a seed stalk (or scape–which is edible) from the center of the bulb that should be cut, whereas softneck varieties do not have a seed stalk. I suggest these varieties for the following regions:
- Northeast: Both softneck and hardneck varieties do well in the Northeast. ‘Polish White’ is in the Artichoke group and produces large bulbs with very good flavor. Hardneck varieties in the Porcelain group also are favorites with Northeast growers such as ‘German White’ or ‘Romanian Red,’ which have huge cloves and great flavor.
- Southeast: The Turban group (below, drying) includes many beautiful varieties that do well in warm climates. For those who live in the sub-tropical coastal areas in this region, varieties in the Artichoke garlic and Turban groups are the best bet.
- Southwest: The creole variety ‘Ajo Rojo’ is well suited to the hot and arid regions of the country. A Silverskin type named ‘Mild French’ is also a top recommendation.
- Midwest and Northwest central: Varieties that survive harsh winters and hot summers do well in this region. Rocambole and Purple Stripe varieties are good options.
- Northwest and Pacific Coast: A wide range of varieties perform well on the west coast. Purple stripes such as ‘Chesnok Red’ are commonly grown as well as the Silverskin variety ‘Nootka Rose,’ which does well along the rainy NW coast.
Q. What if my soil is sandy (or clayey, or wet, or otherwise tricky). Can you suggest the best varieties for my conditions?
A. Garlic does prefer a well-drained soil. Amending your soil structure or planting into raised beds is a good idea for poorly draining soil types. The Artichoke garlic varieties are the most adaptable and easiest to grow in a variety of soil types and climates. We do have some varieties that are well adapted to certain conditions; ‘Killarney Red,’ a hardneck type, does quite well in wet and clay soils. Porcelain varieties are such vigorous plants that they do better than others with tight soils and wet conditions, just harvest them a little bit early to avoid deteriorated bulb wrappers.
Q. It’s almost garlic-planting time here. But when should gardeners plant in different regions—and what’s the best practice for bed preparation, planting, mulching, fertilizing?
A. The ideal time for planting garlic is three to five weeks before your ground freezes hard. If you are located in a southern region where the soil does not freeze you’ll want to plant late in November or December. Garlic prefers a well-worked soil with good drainage and lots of organic matter. Don’t fear if your soil type is not perfect; garlic is a tough plant that can adjust to many soil types.
Garlic is a fairly heavy feeder that wants a good amount of Nitrogen available. We recommend spreading an organic fertilizer or composted manure in the area where you will plant and mixing it into the soil well.
After you ‘”pop” your seed by separating the bulb into individual cloves, plant the cloves about 2-3 inches deep with about 5-8 inches between each clove. Water deeply so that there is plenty of moisture for the cloves to start their root growth before the ground freezes. In climates with cold winters, mulch with several inches or more of leaves or hay.
Q. A related question: I’m always asked by readers: Can they plant garlic in spring? Are there any zones where spring planting will yield a harvest?
A. We do recommend planting in the fall to those growing garlic in all zones for the best harvests. That said, it is possible to grow beautiful full-sized bulbs of garlic from a spring planting. The key to all successful spring garlic plantings is planting very early in the spring, as soon as the soil and can be worked–or better yet, planting directly into an area of the garden that was worked the previous fall.
Q. I’m also always asked: What about growing garlic from seed? How long does it take if it’s possible, and which kinds do come from seed best if any?
A. Garlic primarily reproduces vegetatively through cloning and will not produce true seed except in rare cases. Even when garlic does produce true seed, the seed is generally sterile. You can grow garlic from bulbils. Bulbils are small clones that appear at the top of the scape (above) of hardneck varieties and sometimes along the neck of softneck varieties. Some varieties have very small bulbils–smaller than a grain of rice–while other varieties produce bulbils that are nearly as big as a normal clove. It often will take two or three years of replanting before reaching a normal bulb size. We recommend saving bulbils from the Artichoke, Rocambole and Asiatic varieties since they are the largest.
Q. What if I don’t have much space—can I grow garlic in containers (and if so in which hardiness Zones)?
A. We have found that many urban gardeners or those who prefer the ease of container gardening have begun growing garlic on back porches and patios. It is important to find a deep container that has good drainage for growing garlic. Zone 5b or warmer is preferred, but it can be done by insulating the container with mulch in colder climates.
Q. I store a portion of my crop as peeled, whole cloves in the freezer, so it doesn’t deteriorate in my cellar before I get to use it all, but I wish I could get it to last even longer “fresh.” What are the “ideal” conditions for storing garlic?
A. Between 40-55 degrees is optimal with 60-70 percent humidity. If it is too humid you might have problems with mold, and very dry air will dehydrate garlic quicker. You do not want to store garlic in the refrigerator because there is too much moisture. We recommend a root cellar, basement or garage as the best options, but even a cupboard in a cool area of the house will work fine.
Q. Are some varieties better “keepers” that last well in storage all the way to next summer, and the next fresh harvest?
A. Yes! Softneck varieties generally keep the longest, often remaining firm 10 months after harvest. The Artichoke and Silverskin varieties are good choices for long storage. If you prefer hardnecks, some store better than others with Porcelains like ‘Romanian Red’ among the best. Rocamboles have very good flavor but often dehydrate within 3-4 months. In my home we like to eat the shorter-storing varieties first and save mostly Artichoke and Silverskin varieties to eat in the spring and all the way up to the next harvest. “Green” garlic (harvested early, before the bulbs size up) is a fresh treat in the spring if your previous year’s garlic supply is dwindling.
Q. Taste-wise, can you suggest some varieties that are hot or mild, for instance, or are excellent roasted?
A. ‘Silverwhite‘ and ‘Creole Red,’ and ‘Thai Fire’ are some of the hottest varieties we grow. Some of the Artichoke varieties are quite mild, which makes them great for raw use or for those who don’t like a sharp bite; ‘Susanville’ and ‘California Early’ are among the mildest. Purple Stripe varieties are revered by chefs for their sublime sweet flavor when roasted; ‘Metechi’ and ‘Khabar’ are two of the best baking garlics, with a creamy texture when done.
win a copy of ‘growing great garlic’ and some bulbs
I’VE BOUGHT THREE COPIES of “Growing Great Garlic,” the book by Filaree Farm‘s founding farmer that got me started growing my favorite allium of all. To enter to win a copy, plus a $15 gift certificate for your choice of bulbs, all you have to do is comment below, answering this question:
What kind of garlic you grow–hardneck, softneck, or maybe its particular varietal name?
(I’m a hardneck nut, and love ‘German Extra Hardy,’ also called ‘German Stiffneck.’)
Don’t worry if you don’t grow garlic yet, or know the name of the kind you do (or if you feel shy and don’t want to give any details). Just say “count me in” and your entry will be registered.
Winners will be chosen at random after entries close at midnight on Thursday, October 4. Good luck to all.
Ready to grow your own garlic this year? Planting time is just ahead!
(Disclosure: I’ve been proud to run ads from Filaree Farm on A Way to Garden since May of this year. All giveaway prizes are purchased by me. Photos except top two images are copyright Phoebe Webb Photography; used with permission.)
Hi, Betsy. No worry — that’s normal. Don’t cut back!
2 years ago i was in the south of france at a farmer’s market in Plan de la Tor, where i was staying for a week at a friends place. i saw gorgeous large purple garlic heads that i just had to have.not being a french speaker( a terrible thing at a rural farmers market for an avid gardener)and unable to communicate with the farmer about varietal type, i just bought 6 of the biggest and smuggled them back to my garden site in orange county,ny. don’t anyone call the USDA please!! I’ve been growing it for the last 2 years,saving the largest to plant. they are still not as big as the “mother bulbs” but i’m hoping that each year they will get more acclimated to my soil/weather conditions and keep on growing. anyone have any experience with this?
Hi, Dona. Are the cloves purple or just the skin? Some that I know about with purple cloves or these where the skin is striped or blotched purple. I think if you emailed to Filaree Farm (info @ filareefarm dot com but spelled all together in one sequence like an email address) and tell them your experience, they will probably have the best guess. As far as acclimating the variety to your conditions by selecting the best cloves from the biggest heads as your “seed” for the next generation, yes, absolutely. However, if the species or variety isn’t suitable for your climate, there can be limits how well it can do. I don’t know how your climate compares to southern France.
What a truly interesting post. Although I live Down Under in Sydney, it is still nice to read indepth blogs on different veg etc. I have been growing garlic for 3 years now and each year I am increasing the size of my garden beds to accommodate more varieties. I will be harvesting my current crop in Dec/Jan – our summer. Nothing beats the taste of homegrown garlic and it really is such an easy crop to grow. Only thing to remember as one old gardener told me is that Garlic is a ‘patient’ crop – meaning you the gardener have to be patient and not pull it up before its time!!
As a child living in UK on the south coast, I remember the french ‘Johnny Onion Man’, as we always called him, who would come across on the ferry to our city then ride on his pushbike which was loaded with plaited strings of onions and garlic and he would go door to door selling them. Such great memories!
Hi, Dirtgirl. Love the memory you shared of Johnny Onion Man — beautiful. Thank you. I always forget how your seasons are opposite ours. :)
Dirtgirl,
What a romantic memory! Sounds like something out of a movie– thanks for sharing!
I have grown garlic for the last two years with great success. Easy peel, purple Italian, is what I grow and we love it! Everyone I give it to loves it too!!
Oh boy, planting my first garlic today and this has really inspired me. Thanks.
At our local co-op, i just picked up “farmer rick’s picks” which are:
German white; Italian purple; Ukrainian; Romanian red
from Seeds of Solidarity Farm in Orange, Massachusetts
Although I have gardened for decades, I have never grown garlic, so thank you for all the information. This packet of garlic called “Solidarity Seed Garlic for the Home Gardener” does have excellent directions for planting, mulching, fertilizing, harvesting and hanging to cure, but the more information one has from excellent sources the better! Thanks.
Sounds wonderful, Johanna. I love things recommended by my local growers, too. And yes, I learned a lot from Alley Swiss’s answers too. See you soon I hope.
I am an expat Canadian living on a farm near Khon Kaen, Thailand. I have real problems growing garlic successfully or to a large size. In our area of N.E. Thailand, we experience tropical rains from July through October, colder and dryer days mid November through mid February and hot dry conditions from March through June. The soil here is quite clayey and does not have good drainage. I would really appreciate any recommendations or advice. Thanks greatly!!
Hi, Laurie. I am going to direct your question to Filaree Farm by email and see if they know!
Laurie: I asked Alley Swiss of Filaree Farm, and here’s his answer:
Count me in! This will be my first year growing organic hardneck garlic. I’m excited to try the Hardy German and Purple Stripe. Wish me luck!!!
About 15 years ago I purchased some seed garlic from Seed Savers. I have become addicted to growing garlic. I have turned my original purchase of about 5 bulbs into planting about 450 cloves per season. I also mostly grow German Extra Hardy. Because of the size and flavor it makes for great roasting. To anyone out there who wants to get into growing garlic but is not sure how let me tell you it is very simple. And you don’t have to do much once it’s planted. Just watch it grow.
Hi, Glenn. Couldn’t agree more! Thanks for sharing your success story.
Hello, I have been planting garlic for 3 years. This year, since I loved it so much, I purchased a huge amount of garlic (about 30pds!) and planted it all. One of the beds I planted it in has fairly good organic material in it, but not the best. It looks like 1/3 to 1/4 of the garlic I planted did not produce greens after I planted them in October in my 6b zone garden. Is this normal? or are these bulbs rotting in the ground? Hoping you have good news for me. I never planted garlic in the bed that they are in this year. THANKS!
Hi, Rachel. I don’t think you really will know till the soil really warms and things start pushing seriously in a sustained way. I have had years when I had strong green growth in fall, and other years when it was less pronounced, just a bit. Yes, some cloves can rot, especially if the soil is poor-draining (as with any bulb). Don’t give up yet! :) Also, if you planted 30 pounds it sounds like you’ll have a farm’s worth even if some fail!
Rachel, as per my previous post, I harvested a wonderful crop a couple of months back. I had presumed that some of mine had also rotted in the ground, without ever sprouting. However over the past couple of weeks we have had much needed rain and suddenly I had all these mysterious green sproutings dotted throughout the ‘empty’ garlic bed. Obviously some of the bulbs from last years plantings decided to hibernate and have started growing now. A bit ‘out of season’ for us here in Australia as we don’t usually plant until later in the year. There is an old saying here to plant on the shortest day (June 21st) and harvest on the longest day ( Dec 21st) but I always like to get it my garlic in a bit earlier to give it as long as possible in the ground.
Rachel, you will have an enormous crop from your 30 lbs of garlic, you should be able to set up a Farmers Market stall and sell it….. It is great to read about other enthusiastic garlic growers. Good Luck with this years crop.
Thanks for sharing this information. Just kind of messing around, my four year old daughter planted all the sections of two or three garlic bulbs in a backyard planter. These are now growing into hearty plants. This made me wounder “ok. now when should we dig them up so she can see the result.” Thanksagain the information.
What a nice story, Luther. Wait till they are mature; won’t be much going on below the surface yet! Hope to see you again soon.
In response to the above question for the contest even though it looks like I am too late– I grow both hardneck and softneck garlic. This year I grew German red as well as silver rose softneck. I use the softneck for garlic greens (as well as the hardneck). We LOVE garlic greens. Anyone else use garlic greens? Also, to those of you who do like garlic greens–have you found that harvesting a few of the leaves makes the bulbs smaller? I have heard of people eating garlic straight for its health benefits–well, I tried this with a particularly strong variety of hardneck garlic and experienced something that has never happened to me before or since!! I immediately felt sick and did infact, to put it politely, “eject” the garlic—anyone else had that experience? I did not expect it as I had read of others eating garlic straight quite a bit….maybe what they had was softneck garlic?! Thanks for the follow up to my earlier question!
Hi Rachel. I Like to do the garlic greens in a pot inside. And yes, it does diminish the bulb to slip any greens. All the parts are edible but sometimes there is more heat in the garlic, so maybe you just caught it at the wrong moment!
We,ve grown garlic for several years in N. Georgia, and love the ease of letting it grow all winter with hardly any care. In the spring we weed once or twice, but have to get it out of the ground when it,s dry or we could lose it all to rotting. A such a treat to have garlic to give, to dry and powder, to know it doesn,t come from China.
I want to grow garlic in the Caribbean which is the best type for that climate?
Hi, Tony. I think the category of garlic best suited for you will be Creole types, and try to buy from a producer in a similarly warm area who specializes in them.
PLEASE, count me in. Thanks and it has been fun reading all these letters. Now I want to grow garlic too, and I will.