http://awaytogarden.com/forum/forum.php?id=12 gardening Q&A from A Way to Garden en-US Fri, 24 May 2013 03:20:40 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q http://awaytogarden.com/forum/search.php http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=727#post-2224 Sun, 16 Oct 2011 18:13:33 +0000 ugq 2224@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Ohio State extension and other sources say it's ok: </p> <p>"Walnut leaves can be composted because the toxin breaks down when exposed to air, water and bacteria."</p> <p>The full fact sheet on black walnut issues from the allelopathic of the chemicals in its roots, etc: </p> <p>http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1148.html </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=727#post-2223 Sun, 16 Oct 2011 17:59:15 +0000 sunnyf 2223@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>We have a large black walnut tree in our yard along with many other trees. We are mulching all of our leaves with a mower this fall and putting them in a bin to use in the garden later. Is this okay to do with the black walnut leaves? I am concerned about poisoning the garden with them, but if we don't use them for at least 6 months, should it be okay? </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=683#post-2144 Mon, 20 Jun 2011 21:54:31 +0000 Leslie 2144@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Greensand is great to use generally. It is usually recommended to be applied at 2-4 pounds per 100sq.ft. It is a valuable soil conditioner as well as a slow release source of Potash (K) and many trace minerals. When added to clay it loosens the soil and when added to sand it improves the water holding capacity of the soil. This is because while it flows like sand, it holds a lot of water. Because it makes many minerals available it will improve the microbial life of the soil as well.</p> <p>However, it will raise the pH of the soil slightly, so for acid loving plants or soil that is already very alkaline you should add sulfur at the same time. Perhaps this is why you read that it is recommended to go easy with it. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=683#post-2136 Wed, 15 Jun 2011 09:51:04 +0000 Terri H. 2136@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Is greensand something to use generally, or do some plants not like it? I've dug some in around my roses, but I don't know which other plants to give it to... and I only have a little bitty bag right now, and I seem to recall reading somewhere that you should go easy with it. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=683#post-2056 Mon, 25 Apr 2011 07:52:26 +0000 ugq 2056@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>RE: the higher middle number, as Leslie says, that is what was/is often called a "root and bloom" formula, emphasizing Phosphorus (the middle # in the N-P-K ration on the label). For flowering/fruiting plants a high N number can produce lots of foliageat the expense of flowers/fruit -- so perhaps I was talking about a situation where something didn't bloom or set fruit? </p> <p>I have also been interested to see lately that the wonderful SafeLawns.org has a resources list that includes many of its organic sponsors and others -- and Espoma is included as well as East Coast Organics and others. Have a look at their list: </p> <p>http://safelawns.org/resource_directory.cfm</p> <p>And my post on fertilizer choices, and why to select organic and so on with lots of good links: </p> <p>http://awaytogarden.com/which-fertilizer-whats-in-the-bag</p> <p>The Organic Consumers Association is also a good place to root around for information about sources etc.: </p> <p>http://www.organicconsumers.org/ </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=683#post-2053 Fri, 15 Apr 2011 11:07:20 +0000 Leslie 2053@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Here is a great <a href="http://awaytogarden.com/which-fertilizer-whats-in-the-bag">basic post on fertilizers</a> to get you started.</p> <p>I really like the <a href="http://www.espoma.com/index.cfm">Epsoma</a> brand fertilizers. They are easy to find - many of them are available in Home Depot and Lowes, and as well as the basics like bonemeal, bloodmeal, and greensand, there is a mix (which they call 'tone' ie. Holly-tone, Plant-tone) for many different types of plants. These fertilizers also contain beneficial micro-organisms which can be a real boon if your soil is poor in these (sometimes due to over feeding with synthetic fertilizers- the longterm fix is compost, compost, compost and mulch!.)</p> <p>You should adjust the numbers to suit what you are growing. The middle number refers to phosphorus. This nutrient is very important for root growth and flowers, consequently it should be high in fertilizers meant for annual flowers or bulbs. Bone meal is a good organic source of phosphorus, so if you are growing bulbs or annuals and your fertilizer does not have a high middle number, you can add a little bonemeal to your plantings. </p> <p>One of the advantages of organic fertilizers such as bone meal is that they need to be digested by the soil before they are available for the plants to use, this means they are slower acting and released steadily over a long period of time making them fairly fool-proof for mixing your own. Unlike with synthetic fertilizers it is difficult to 'overdue it.' The Espoma website has some good basic information about organic and synthetic fertilizers. Sorry for the long post, but this is a fascinating subject. It would be good to hear what some other people have used. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=683#post-2052 Wed, 13 Apr 2011 18:55:36 +0000 lct 2052@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>There are many choices in the garden stores for organic fertilizers for perennials. Would you recommend granular or liquid? And then, which brands? One option I found was fish fertilizer but the ratio is 5:1:1 and I believe that Margaret recommends that the middle number be the highest. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=21#post-2039 Mon, 04 Apr 2011 15:08:34 +0000 Leslie 2039@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>It is not possible to post a picture in the forum, but if you have a way to post the image on the internet (such as flicker or a personal webpage) you can include a link in your post so that others can see it.<br /> Without any image, my guess is it may be the fruiting bodies of some type of fungus. Check out Margaret's post on <a href="http://awaytogarden.com/my-growing-fascination-with-yup-fungus">fungus</a> - there are some great links towards the bottom that might help you id the orange balls if they are a fungus. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=21#post-2038 Mon, 04 Apr 2011 12:51:57 +0000 jjameson1980 2038@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Does anyone know what these orange balls are in my soil? I just found them on top of the soil today - they are about the size of my pinky fingernail. I have a picture, but don't know how to post it. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=651#post-1956 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 22:23:18 +0000 Terryk 1956@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Thanks Leslie. This will help but hope Margaret will be able to put something together so in spring I will be ready to win the battle of the weeds! </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=651#post-1955 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 19:33:58 +0000 Leslie 1955@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Hi Terryk, Until Margaret gets something together here is a link to all the forum posts that talk about weeding. The ones I found the most helpful are <a href="http://awaytogarden.com/forum/tags.php?tag=weeds">here</a>. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=651#post-1951 Tue, 19 Oct 2010 11:07:06 +0000 Terryk 1951@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Not sure where to put this...</p> <p>Margaret, can you put together a blog on weeding 101-techniques and tools to use? </p> <p>What is your best method getting rid of the runners in the perennial beds vs. the veggie garden?<br /> What tools work best in the garden bed vs. veggie garden?</p> <p>I find that your blogs get more comments and would love to know if there is a better method to controlling all the weeds-I feel I must be doing something wrong here. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=621#post-1877 Thu, 05 Aug 2010 06:42:04 +0000 Terryk 1877@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Thanks for answering this question. I have to try adding the crab grass too. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=621#post-1876 Wed, 04 Aug 2010 21:39:29 +0000 barbg 1876@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Since I have no grass clippings because of drought, I'm going to try your technique with my bumper crop of crab grass! Think I can try this with garlic mustard (before seed set) or microstegium? I have even more of those. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=621#post-1873 Wed, 04 Aug 2010 13:28:45 +0000 ugq 1873@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>You are welcome, TerryK, and no, I think no holes in the bags. Let them really smother and cook! (Devilish, aren't I?) </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=621#post-1872 Sun, 01 Aug 2010 10:45:39 +0000 Terryk 1872@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>A quick question on the black bag method, do you poke holes in the bottom and sides so water drains from the bag over time? </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=621#post-1871 Sat, 31 Jul 2010 08:18:32 +0000 Terryk 1871@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>I said "thank you" in the forum, but wanted to come back here and thank you also for the very helpful info. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=621#post-1870 Fri, 30 Jul 2010 06:38:04 +0000 ugq 1870@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>This list and how-to from Gardens Organic (England) is one of my favorites on why to compost and no compost: </p> <p>http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/composting/compost_pf.php</p> <p>Scroll down on that great page (part of the most comprehensive composting site I know of) for the info on weeds/weed seeds, which includes this advice about bagging (to solarize/cook to death) the unwanted weeds, BEFORE adding them to the heap: </p> <p>"Some perennial weeds will be killed in a hot heap; avoid really persistent horrors such as celandine, docks, bulbous buttercup, ground elder and bindweed. Don't burn or dump these weeds - they are rich in plant foods. Mix with grass mowings in a plastic sack. Tie it up and leave for a few months until the weeds are no longer recognisable, then add to the compost heap. Or send them to your local council green waste recycling facility where the composting methods are hot enough to kill them off."</p> <p>The bagging idea is great -- a sort of waste not, want not tactic for recycling them versus tossing them into the trash -- and you can use a few bags over and again. The weeds I bag instead of adding right to the heap include any with strong runners (like goutweed, or former garden plants I now find too ambitious like plume poppy or ajuga) and any that have started to flower before I pulled them. </p> <p>P.S. -- More on weeds (particularly on ID'ing them so you know what you are up against) in this blog post: </p> <p>http://awaytogarden.com/what-weed-is-it-putting-names-to-pesky-plants </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=621#post-1869 Wed, 28 Jul 2010 21:35:17 +0000 Leslie 1869@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>I never add perennial weeds that can sprout new shoots from little pieces. This may be OK to do if you are very diligent about making and turning your compost, but I am pretty lazy, and I don't think my compost ever heats up enought to kill anything. Plus most of these weeds (mugwort, oriental bittersweet, that weedy aster -- Symphyotrichum lanceolatum) are pretty persistant. </p> <p>There are some plants that can make seeds after being pulled up if they have already been in flower long enough. I will have a look through my weed books to see if any of them contain information about this. You would need to look up each of your weeds to see which flowers will be OK. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=621#post-1866 Tue, 27 Jul 2010 09:44:59 +0000 Terryk 1866@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Some of my best plants this year seem to be the weeds! </p> <p>I have some that have seed blossoms set but no flowers open. I want to cut them off before they bloom just in case I don't get to fully weeding them out till it is cooler.</p> <p>Quesiton is, can I throw these clippings into the compost bin or will I find they somehow land up setting seed and making the compost a mass of weed seed?</p> <p>Another question, what weeds do you NEVER add to the compost pile (crab grass?, anything that runs wild in the garden?)?</p> <p>Thanks,<br /> Terry </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=21#post-1859 Wed, 21 Jul 2010 09:36:49 +0000 Rosamund 1859@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>I have an inherited cherry tree, v large. It is oozing sticky stuff, very badly and we are in the throws of taking it down and burning it but unfortunately it has infected a new apricot tree. I have taken off the affected branches but the main trunk has started oozing. Is there anything I can do. The apricot is small, still in a pot. Just for information, I live in Italy. Can you suggest what I can do to save the apricot tree.</p> <p>Also, I have an enormous pine that has been oozing a milky substance, what can I do about this. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=473#post-1853 Sat, 17 Jul 2010 22:05:24 +0000 Leslie 1853@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Did you try? Just curious to know if it worked. I would guess that it might not work because the soil is not a liquid, and I'm not sure that just adding water would give an accurate idea of the pH; plus you would need to know the pH of the water to begin with... Or could you use distilled water? </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=542#post-1790 Sat, 12 Jun 2010 19:06:15 +0000 rgmoore 1790@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Applying fertilizers, organic or inorganic must be dealt with caution. Although its organic, it does not mean applying too much of it will not damage our plants. We have to understand the basics of what are plants need on a case to case basis. Although we have a general purpose fertilizers, which consist of all the three nutrients needed for plant growth, we need to understand what kind of fertilizer to apply for a specific purpose. Like if our plants is on its growing stage, we must not apply a general purpose fertilizer, hence we must apply a nitrogen base fertilizer that is much need for plant growth. The three following chemical compounds may give you an idea of what plant nutrients are needed for specific plant development:</p> <p>[1] Nitrogen – This is the main nutrient for new green growth. This is especially important for plants that are mostly all leaf such as grasses. As a result the ratio for lawn fertilizers has a higher 1st ratio number meaning more nitrogen in the mix.</p> <p>[2] Phosphorus – This nutrient promotes good root development and strengthens the flower or plant. It also results in increased blooms on flowers so lots of phosphorus is great for bulbs and perennials. Fertilizers higher in phosphorus have a higher 2nd number in the ratio.</p> <p>[3] Potassium – This builds strong and healthy plants &amp; flowers and improves the overall health of the flora.</p> <p>Based from that, you can plan your fertilizer application all year round. best of luck.</p> <p>"One who plants a garden, plants happiness."</p> <p>~~ Rose Moore<br /> <a href="http://www.platedgoldroses.com">roses dipped in gold</a><br /> <a href="http://www.crystalfigurinegifts.com">crystal rose gift</a> </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=552#post-1705 Mon, 10 May 2010 13:35:23 +0000 solace76 1705@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>I've used this vinegar combo. Works a little better than straight vinegar as it sticks to the leaves better.</p> <p># 4 cups (1 Litre) of white vinegar<br /> # 1/4 cup (50 ml) of table salt<br /> # 2 tsp (10 ml) of your favorite liquid dish soap<br /> # Combine these ingredients in a spray bottle<br /> # Spray it on your weeds in the direct sun on a bright sunny day </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=552#post-1702 Sun, 09 May 2010 20:54:35 +0000 elbee 1702@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>My mother did the boiling water routine on weeds and on ground bees nests! I use the regular household vinegar either in a sprayer or straight from the bottle, depending on how much I need to do. It's fun on a hot sunny day to watch within a few hours to see those babies curl and turn brown. It doesn't kill to the root, but works good enough for me. It does smell like a salad dressing out there for awhile. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=552#post-1690 Thu, 06 May 2010 22:25:15 +0000 Keenbean 1690@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Once you remove the weeds, you could try using corn gluten as a pre-emergent form of weed control. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=552#post-1682 Mon, 03 May 2010 22:23:32 +0000 Leslie 1682@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>If it is not a large area, you can simply pour a kettle of boiling water over the weeds. Along the same lines, you could buy a flame weeder. This is a torch hooked up to a small propane cylinder. I have not used one to weed, but I have used one to draw images into a lawn, so I know that they kill grass! The grass won't look dead right away, it will die a few days later (similar to chemical spray). A word of caution: I have read that they are not practical for weeding between plants that you want, because it is easy to accidentally hit and kill something desirable without realizing it. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=558#post-1674 Thu, 29 Apr 2010 12:01:09 +0000 ottan 1674@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>This is so helpful -- thanks so much. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=558#post-1667 Wed, 28 Apr 2010 14:34:56 +0000 ugq 1667@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>Seems like you will have to sort of "pocket plant" whatever else you add, scooping out little pockets of the offending faux soil and layering back in the desired additional plants with perhaps some bagged compost instead? </p> <p>Hard to renovate soil once things are planted as you say, so I just try to topdress, as it is called, with an inch of compost each year, and let that break down naturally into the underlying soil without uprooting things. </p> http://awaytogarden.com/forum/topic.php?id=558#post-1650 Fri, 23 Apr 2010 08:20:22 +0000 ottan 1650@http://awaytogarden.com/forum/ <p>This year I have taken over responsibility for the tree bed in front of our West Village apartment building, but I am not entirely sure what to do about the soil around the tree.</p> <p>For background, the tree is fairly young -- planted about 3 or 4 years ago -- and our building installed a short fence around the bed to protect it (the previous young tree was destroyed by car doors). They also added a few boards around the edge and raised the soil about 6 inches. The city doesn't really like when the soil is not flush with the sidewalk, but I think the setup would be pretty hard to remove and the tree seems to have adapted to the higher soil level. The problem is that I think they filled the area with potting mix rather than regular soil. I am afraid to remove it, because there is also a relatively young false hydrangea vine planted there too.</p> <p>Any recommendations about how to improve this soil before I add some new plants? </p>