beloved conifer: japanese umbrella pine
WHEN I CAME TO THIS GARDEN in the 1980s, I brought just two plants, tucked into the back of the moving van last-minute by movers who looked at me as if to say, “Really, lady?” One was a clump of dark purple Siberian iris tossed into a recycled produce-store bushel basket; the other a young Japanese umbrella pine I’d had for only a few years and just couldn’t seem to leave behind. Thank goodness I didn’t. Sciadopitys verticillata is my most beloved conifer, and the most-asked-about plant in my garden all these years.
At the time of the transplanting of the young umbrella pine, I had never seen another except in botanical-garden collections; unusual or rare was the word. Now they’re at nurseries, but usually quite small and always quite expensive, and they’re pretty easy to kill, at least at first. But what did I know when I uprooted the tree and had it put in that truck?

An umbrella pine first spoke to me in a come-hither voice at Planting Fields Arboretum in Oyster Bay, Long Island, a place I’d visited a lot as a teenager that happily became part of my “beat” as garden editor of Long Island-based “Newsday” newspaper.

That’s the umbrella pine, I say, and it’s not actually a pine at all.
It’s an ancient thing, and like Ginkgo has been around since dinosaur times, also forming the solitary species in its genus and family. Other odd bits: The umbrella pine’s cones take nearly two years to size up after pollination. When expert visitors come here during Open Days and happen to see how many my tree bears, they always tell me that last fact, to make sure I am properly impressed.

One year, after very heavy snowfall threatened to disfigure the tree or even break off limbs, friends suggested shearing it in spring, just as the new growth or candles emerged. This gentle tipping back seems to have reduced the umbrella pine’s inclination to get more lax with age, at least for the moment. It also made it more pyramidal in shape.
Umbrella pines hail from cloud forests in Japan, where rainfall and humidity are both high, so don’t expect Sciadopitys to cooperate with drought. Baby it in the first year or two after transplanting, in particular. If you want to grow one in the warmer end of its range (Zones 5 to 7 or 8), protection from the midday sun would be appreciated. Oh, and one more “expert” tip: Skip the stupid moving-van caper I somehow got away with.


Thank you for all this good info! We inherited a Japanese umbrella with the property we bought in Maine. It was given to the owner by a very good friend of hers. She asked us to please look after it. We had never seen one and started to do some research. We live in Maine so winters can be pretty harsh and my thought is always to wrap it up in burlap for the winter! Looks like this doesn’t have to be done! It’s about 12 feet tall now and is a beautiful green color.
So fun to read this — thank you! I have a few of these beauties here in southern Ontario in Canada. I’m concerned about some isolated yellowing on one…and on another, I may have planted it too close to the house? The part that backs onto the wall is definitely dead.
Of course, I discover that pruning should happen in early spring (doh!) so I don’t want to come at these poor things with some death-inducing cutting. Any suggestions?
Reading this in 2026 as my in-laws here on Long Island bought one about 7 years ago and are unhappy with how big it’s gotten in the planter in the front of the house’s windows… Thinking of taking it upstate to Orange County and plopping it in my own border. Hoping for the best.
I planted mine 3 years ago and it’s doing well. I’m concerned however because there are two main trunks side by side. I’m thinking this could be problematic.
Individual umbrella pines can be multi-stemmed or have a single trunk; neither is better or worse, good or bad. Mine has multiples.
Hi Margaret. We planted our Japanese Umbrella Pine 8 years ago in a very secluded, partly shaded spot against a fence. It has two leaders and is a beautiful, healthy tree. It’s about 8 ft. tall. Unfortunately, it’s getting crowded with two other trees and we would like to move it to another location, which is not as protected and shady. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hi, Anne. As you probably know from reading elsewhere they sometimes don’t settle in after transplanting, and uprooting it again after 8 years at that size might be quite the undertaking. Would not be something I would or could do myself, frankly. I got lucky that mine liked the place I put it and has grown there for 35 years or so. It needs a lot of space — like 15 or more feet across at the base, preferably 20.
My umbrella pine is about 25 feet tall. I need to trim top to about 20 feet. Also need to cut it back as it is growing against house wall. How should I handle this task?
Great to hear!!
I am such a newbie to gardening, we loved this umbrella pine very late fall,purchased and planted . It looks like it did fine over its first winter. My research led me to you.thank you.i am so amazed with the beauty, the history, I had no idea how special this is.i feel very privileged
Is Sciadopitys verticillata poisonous to people or pets?
I don’t know, Ryan, and do not see anything in reference books alerting me to that but of course that goes not mean I would take a bite of any plant or anything. : )
Do you know if you can grow an umbrella pine with the use of its pine cones? I have hundreds in a container, just don’t know if there is something you need to do before planting them. My Umbrella pine has small clusters of round balls in the shape of a small cone, about an inch long. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Donna
Technically you can, but as I understand it it is a VERY long process and involves stratification of the seed over a several-month period at very particular temperatures (meaning you need a temperature-controlled propagation setup) … says University of Delaware and other resources: “Warm stratification is required for 100 days in most sand at 63 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit or for 90 days in moist, acid peat at 32 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit.”
Margaret, I just purchased an umbrella pine. It is in a six inch container and about 5 inches tall. I live in Zone 9. It gets very hot here in the summer. I was wondering if I could grow it in a pot; if so, how large of a pot should I plant it in and what kind of soil.
Hi, Dee. Yikes, that’s outside my expertise, except to say that the upper (warmer) range of its hardiness as a landscape plant is Zone 8 many sources say, though a few say Zone 9, so it isn’t going to tolerate being in the baking heat in a small pot especially. I don’t know which one you got, but though they are slow-growing they do become trees of 20+ feet generally.
They like rich, moist soil (not sodden but moisture-retentive soil with good organic-matter content)…probably not what you have in the ground, but something you will have to concoct from store-bought ingredients. Not a “pro mix” kind of lightweight peat-rich mix but maybe one with more bark content (ask at the garden center), plus some compost.
So it would need a big pot eventually, and a location that didn’t toast it nonstop (no full-on afternoon sun in your zone I think), and will need to be watered a lot. But if it’s only a tiny thing right now you don’t want to move it up to a big pot till it grows — which means nursing it along gradually and increasing the pot size as needed over time. Not easy.
(On the other extreme, I have seen them occasionally touted as “bonsai” subjects, but have no first-hand experience. This nursery in Sonoma County, I see, does recommend them as such; perhaps someone like that knows? Bonsai, of course, is about artistic hard pruning to keep the plant very small…and I presume you’d have to bring it indoors like a houseplant or something in the hottest months, since with a small amount of soil it would just be frying? Again, outside my expertise.)
How do you start umbrella line trees from seeds.
Hi, Joy. It’s a VERY slow process and requires some pre-treatment of the sown seed for several months in the fridge and often yield low germination…and the resulting seedlings (if any) won’t be ready for the open ground for a year or two I believe if then. Often it is done from cuttings, but that, too, requires a proper setup. Some discussion of the seed experience (and also here). Starts to explain why they are so expensive as nursery plants.
Hi Margaret,
I have a 2.5yr old JUT sapling. I live in W. MA & the drought of 2016 took it’s toll on this poor tree. It stands about 6’ tall & has lost most of its bottom & mid growth. I made a large well around it during that time, but all the water I gave it wasn’t enough. It is now coming back to life with lots of green fresh growth, but sadly mostly at the top. It has also developed 2 leaders beginning about 5’ level. I staked it up allowing it to make it through winter’s snowfall but have resigned myself to realize this will never be an attractive tree. I do want to give it a chance. Should I remove 1 of the leaders? I’m afraid with new lush top growth, the plant will be way too top-heavy. And any other recommendations for giving this tree a future is very much appreciated.
Thank you…
Mine originally had 3 leaders and now has just 2, so it is not uncommon for them to be multi-stemmed. Hard to know what to do without seeing it, sorry to say.
What is that tree with purple flowers in the second photo?? It’s beautiful!
Hi, Ashleigh. It’s just a very old, very large rhododendron — some kind of hardy evergreen type.
If you wish to get more info about Sciadopitys verticillata – vist my FB group:
Sciadopitys verticillata
https://www.facebook.com/groups/sciadopitys.verticillata/
I hve 65 different cultivars, lots of pictures/info etc.
Hi Margaret,
I was hoping you would be able to assist me. I have a beautiful umbrella pine approx. 15-17 ft tall. As of this early spring, we had added on top existing weed barrier and very little left over mulch, we added a single layer of weed barrier and new 3/4 inch stones on top. I am noticing 3 different areas where the branches are dark brown/reddish dead pines, like entire branches. They are towards the bottom around outside of this tree. It is also a little on top. As of recent 3 -4 weeks, its been very hot in NJ like 90 degree real feel like 100+, not too much rain. I don’t want to lose my precious umbrella tree. So far I have started to water weekly apprx, 25mins with a nozzle set on shower, I have also scattered 9 cups of
tree-tone around all my trees. I am going to cut off the dead branches to see if any more new branches are turning brown. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I could send you some pics. if necessary.
Thank You in Advance!!
Hi, Chander. Sorry about your tree, but lots of things might be adding up (along with the very dry year we’ve had and the intense heat) to trouble. In the Northeast we have been below average rainfall in many areas and above average heat the last year, and had no real winter precipitation that big trees rely on.
My advice would have been not to feed it when it is showing stress signs, but thankfully you didn’t use anything fast-acting. Also: I’d say definitly not to mulch it with stone (that is not the kind of additional heat trap it wants; this is not a plant of gravelly habitats), and actually never, ever to use weed barrier fabric under trees and shrubs (or really anywhere; bad stuff).
The watering you describe is nowhere close to what a plant that size will want. Either buy soaker hoses to lay all around the root zone (which is even wider than the tree!) and let them drip slowly for many, many hours at least once weekly or use a fan-type sprinkler on a low setting that runs all day long and wets the root area (not spraying high in the air, and not shooting all the water down right along the trunk).
I’d remove the stones, take out the fabric, and give this plant a natural “organic” mulch (meaning something formerly living that’s been composted, read about that at this link) but first: Get on a serious watering regimen so it doesn’t go into winter dry and stressed.
If you don’t mind a little input, I would like to offer input. I have grown many over the years with good success, from 1yr seedlings. It was said to me that the Sciadopitys do not like “Wet Feet”. Over watering can and will kill them. Moist soil, but well drained. I am from the Philadelphia, PA ,area, and have had no problems with freezing issues. As far as branches breaking, I find that loosely attaching cloths line rope near the base and loosely wrap the branches as you go around the tree to the near top, and loosely tie it off. This will protect the branches, as well as train them for shape. In the spring remove the rope. The umbrella centers are red clusters which will produce about 6 new branches, next season. If that dies, that little branch is gone. In the Springtime, don’t mess with the new shoots, as they are very tender. When young the new shoots will grow about 5″-6″ / yr, later will be about 9″/yr. fertilize in the spring or late Fall.
Hi Jim, when fertilizing in late fall what do you use for fertilizer??
Hello,
I wanted to know the growth rate and time, nobody ever mentions it…I am getting one for here, it just drew me…but I have been trying to get information about it growth rate and can’t find anyone that has any information on that.
Could you help me pls?
It grows slowly, Edna, like 6 inches a year.
Hello Margaret,
I was so happy to find your website. I have a 30 foot tall umbrella tree in my backyard. The homeowner had planted it. In late November, I collected over 70 seeds from the open pine cones and they are currently sitting in cold germination.
Could you provide any advice on how to germinate the seeds successfully?
Thank you again,
Jayden
Click on “view answer” at this link, under the how to propagate question. Beyond this I have mostly only seen scientific papers on it. It is a VERY slow process. VERY.
Hello Margaret. Thank you again for opening your garden for all to see again this year. Its always a highlight for me. I have just moved a 15 year old Japanese Umbrella Pine up from the city. We just had an offer on our apartment so Im now trying to figure out how to plant it. I like you couldn’t leave it behind. Its an old friend. With tomorrow being December 1st I’m a little nervous about what I should do when planting it in my yard in Copake in the morning. Would you please give me some advice? Very thankful for any knowledge you can pass on to me. All the best! Thor
Wow, what a daring move, Thor! But I do understand. I honestly didn’t do anything except put it safely in the ground, and it just took. They can get winterburn so without being well rooted in. I have never myself wrapped anything evergreen to try to prevent that, and these days wrapping isn’t usually recommended (nor are sprays called anti-transpirants, which people used to think helped but do not). Apparently a burlap barrier that sort of acts as a windbreak can help if the site is brutal…but I can’t imagine how I’d install one that wouldn’t blow away on my windy spot. Hopefully your tree has been very well-watered all fall, and continue watering till the ground freezes solid.
Hello,
Thank you for the article. We have a 30 foot tall umbrella pine. It is my most favorite tree. I wanted to know if you knew the proper method in which to propigate new trees from its pine seeds? I would love to grow more for others. Thank you again.
Jay
I am so sick, the nursery I purchased my Umbrella Pine had a tag of shad to full sun. So what did I do, I planted it in the middle of my back yard. This was last year and now its all sunburnt and dying. I water everyday and I even dump a gallon of water on it every evening. We have sandy ground so it drains well. Is there any hope to this plant still? I was planning on place screens around it in the winter this year to try to protect it that way. The stem is still alive. Thanks
I don’t know whether they can recover and grow a full set of needles where older ones have been lost. A little tip burn is one thing; wholesale desiccation back to the wood another. Hard to evaluate the damage there from a distance, needless to say! I don’t know how this plant would fare over time in a sandy soil — it wants a highly organic soil (neither clayey nor sandy but with lots of humus in it) so that it never stays soggy, but doesn’t drain so fast that the roots dry out, either, before the plant has a good, slow drink. Especially in a warmer zone (I am 5B) and a sunnier than shady spot…really hard for it to stay hydrated, especially in the first few years of getting adjusted and rooted in.
I feel in love with a Japanese Umbrella Pine and had to have one! I am in Charlotte, NC, and planted my first Japanese Umbrella Pine in November 2013; it died by the end of Summer 2014. I replaced with another, working in additional planting soil and raising a bit, in November 2014, and it now has died. Both plants were 3′-4′ tall. My beds are irrigated with soaker hoses which run twice/week. The soil around the pines was seemingly moist; not dry, but not a mucky mess either. The location receives full sun until mid-afternoon. I love this plant and desperately want one…and in this location which seemed so perfect! Any ideas? Dare I try yet again?!
Hi, Robin. I wish I knew with a certainty what’s up. Mine just “took” but most people tell me it has been a struggle. Sorry not to have the answer.
I believe they like acid soil. If your PH is off to the sweet side, it could definitely cause an issue.
We have an old umbrella pine about 30′ or higher. Can it be replanted? Its next to my pool which needs redoing and we love the tree and would like to move it
Thanks
You should contact the most expert tree moving company you can find nearby; it’s a risky and gigantic job involving heavy equipment (tree spade machinery etc.) and costly. I don’t know where you are located, but usually either a tree farm, if there is one near you, or a nursery that does high-end landscaping will have a referral for such a person.
Hello Margaret,
Can you help us? We live in Zone 5 in Mass. We have a beautiful Umbrella Pine, easily 15′ tall, that is being shaded out by a golden mop false cypress on either side.
Yes they were the wrong plants to plant there as they grew so much faster than the pine. Due to a long illness, we didn’t pay attention to what was happening outside. Right now about 1 third of the pine has lost its lower needles. we are willing to sacrifice the Golden Mops in the hopes that the lower branches of the pine will somewhat (somehow??) regrow. Are we filled with false hope? should we get rid of the Golden Mops and live with the beautiful pine minus its lower third – planting other slow/low growing plants (rhodies?) to cover up our neglect?
We feel awful!
Before the shading by the mop tops, the pine was happy in its location, with the soil and water.
Thank you for any advice you can offer,
Garry
Hi, Garry. I wish I has a definite answer. Whether it will regrow from the sparse sides depends on whether the wood is alive (flexible/supple, not brittle and dry). Since the golden mops are not as precious as the Sciadopitys, I’d be inclined to sacrifice (or move) them to try to rehab the other, but it will probably be a wait-and-see undertaking, where you’ll have to let the tree tell you what’s alive, and what shape it will eventually take in the damaged areas (or whether you will be forced to limb up into some attractive shape once it does show you the potential or lack of potential for regrowth.
How do I start new umbrella trees from either pinecones or cuttings?
Its very very slow and not a high rate of success, apparently, and the how-to that I have read is always in scientific research papers like this one and this one … so not exactly simple DIY.
Garry, The Sciadopitys can regrow from the trunk. The dead branches will not bud out. You can prune the mops away from the pine, or cut them. If they are in good shape you might move them. I have hundreds of Sciadopitys up to 25 feet tall. I have planted and moved hundreds. Once you move the mops, give the pine fertilizer and water to encourage new growth.
Good luck, Lorens