A COUPLE OF YOU COMMENTED when I posted a spring “walk in the garden” photo gallery, asking for help with the subject of underplanting trees and shrubs (including my oldest magnolia, above). True confession: I have come very slowly and painfully to this lesson, dragged by some much more talented friends, Glenn Withey and Charles Price of Seattle. The lessons have involved some yelling, and even some tears (mine, not theirs). Still interested in learning how to “think mosaic,” as I now call underplanting?
My real education in underplanting began eight years ago, when (20-plus years into my gardening life) I learned the most important lesson of all: Ask for help, preferably early and often. So rather than remaining embarrassed that I wasn’t as confident in making complex and large mixtures of plants, despite all I knew about them individually, I asked Glenn and Charles to come and teach me.
Things got started really badly, and I feared for the friendship. The lowpoint was Day 1: I came around the corner of the house to find Charles (below, in full Pacific Northwest-style rain gear) holding my most treasured plant—in pieces. Without asking, he’d uprooted it and sliced it into tiny chunks. I shouted. He shouted right back. And so I cried, feeling out of control on so many levels.
Of course Charles had done exactly the right thing when the goal is underplanting large areas, such as beneath trees: You need more, more, more of a few key plants to make it all come together. He was making more of my Hylomecon japonicum. At that moment, I didn’t feel quite so philosophical about it, however.
Just this spring, Glenn and Charles, who curate the wonderful Dunn Gardens in Seattle and have a design business as well, visited again for two days. Being much bolder now and with years’ more practice, I uprooted precious things myself with abandon—trilliums and yes, the Hylomecon and goldenseal and other shade-loving treasures. Under two more big, old apples we replicated the successful pictures they’d taught me to create under my oldest magnolia (top) and oldest apple, (carpeted with hellebores and more, just above) that inspired some of you to ask “How’d you do that?”
10 TIPS FOR UNDERPLANTERS
1. No ring-around-the-rosey, thanks anyway. Rather than circling the dripline of trees or shrubs (or a group of trees and shrubs) with groundcovers and bulbs and such, you have to get all the way in there, even right up against the trunk (like this old apple’s above), to make it look UN-manmade…as if it just happened.
2. No polka-dots (except at first): Like I said, It’s all about learning to “think mosaic,” which doesn’t mean polkadots of onesies, but sweeps and drifts and deliberate repetition of said sweeps and drifts. At first, though (as above in a newly laid-out bed under an unseen smokebush in front of the house) no matter how many plants you buy or what you feed them, the new underplanting will look like hell (well, like polka-dots). Which leads to the next lesson:
3. Patience is required. (If you did not know that already, I suspect you have not started a single seed let alone planted a young tree.) This gardening nonsense is all about patience—frankly I think it’s a patience-building practice more than anything else. Your bed will look better next year, and almost great two years after planting. After the third or fourth year you can start harvesting divisions of some plants to repeat your success elsewhere.
4. Select a palette that relies on several key plants, with a few others as punctuation (the little gems to pop up from the carpet beneath them). Buy (or divide) so you have lots of each mainstay to get you started. The late-spring-to-fall palette under my oldest magnolia, top photo and above, is glossy European ginger, yellow Hakonechola macra ‘All Gold,’ Japanese painted ferns and Hosta ‘June,’ with a couple of young ‘Lime Rickey’ heucheras picking up the gold grass.
5. Include ephemerals, early spring bulbs or perennials that come and take advantage of the sunshine before the canopy leafs out, then vanish underground or at least don’t take up much space. Winter aconites, or trilliums, or hylomecon, or Dutchman’s breeches, or bloodroot, or Virginia bluebells…the list goes on. I get about six extra-early weeks of color from my underplantings, before my mainstay plants fill in, by using ephemerals lavishly. That’s the same bed (just above), in April-into-May.
6. Include some “groundcover” types, meaning plants that form thick mats (but not English ivy or pachysandra or vinca!). I am partial to epimediums, European ginger, Hackonechola macra ‘All Gold,’ hellebores, perennial geraniums of a semi-evergreen nature (like ‘Biokovo’ or macrorrhizum), among many.
7. Make space for some real gems. Gems might include species peonies, choice hostas like ‘June’ (a favorite of mine), or even bulbs, like an outburst of martagon lilies or primulas, like the orchid-pink P. kisoana (below, in that same magnolia bed but another two weeks into spring) for an unexpected moment.
8. When choosing plants, remember that leaves are your best friend. Plan on a mix of textures and colors, coming mostly from foliage (as the leaves will be there all season or even all year, and the flowers just come briefly). Think of the color range of heucheras alone you could employ, or hostas—foliage is hardly boring. Which relates to this lesson:
9. Texture is also a great ally. Work it. I cannot imagine “mosaics” working without some linear things (grasses like Hackonechloa, or sedges), contrasted against some ferny things (like, well, ferns) and against some large-textured things (like bigger hostas, or perhaps mayapple, or Diphylleia cymosa).
10. Once you’ve selected a palette, repeat, repeat, repeat. Not just in the first area you underplant, but (if it works) in another area in need of some extra interest, where it may be all mulch right now or a sea of a single groundcover. Soon your first mosaic will fill in and afford you some divisions, and on to making the next beautiful carpet you will go (maybe with help from a great teacher like Charles or Glenn, below, having at it under another apple). 
Okay, I am inspired! I do have one large pin oak surrounded by pachysandra which looks …well, nice but uninspired. Thanks to this post I have a new project on the list now but perhaps it will have to wait until fall since I will have to find a home for the pachysandra and then fill in with all those lovelies you mentioned and more! Let the collection begin and thanks!
This is a perfect post. Really. You manage to deal with the practical (what to do) and the emotional (omfg, I can’t do this! It looks terrible! Help!) in one calming list. Ok. I think I can, I think I can, I think I can…
What do you do under a pine, though?
We have a huge one–so big we have a small table and chairs under it.
I heard not much will grow under a big pine because the dropped pine needles make the soil very acidic?
So do we try to plant something or just edge it and put pea gravel down or other mulch to make it feel more “finished”?
@Layanee: A convert! And fall sounds like the right time…I have more such projects planned for then. We can compare progress reports.
@Paige: Yup. Like our logo up top says, “Horticultural how-to, and woo-woo.” Sometimes the woo-woo comes in the form of conquering emotional obstacles; other times it’s even woo-ier and downright spiritual. This is the part that I love: how tackling gardening projects yields this other kind of growth, not just more green stuff.
@Millie: Nothing is absolute; gardening is all trial and error, and many conventional wisdoms (like about inhospitability under pine trees) can be stretched a little. I would try plants that tolerate dry shade like Epimediums, and also some robust, grow-anywhere subjects that might be thuggish in a garden bed, like Lamium. Also try some ferns; I see that the local types pop up spontaneously under my big pines and spruces, which I take as a signal that this would make a good place for a fern garden (again, using dry-tolerant species). Experiment, planting in little pockets and offering regular water for the first months to get things rooted in.
I just posted a question about pines in the forum, and here’s an instant answer!
:)
Thanks, Margaret!
Great advice! It’s so hard to rip apart a nice clump of something, knowing it’s all going to look like hell for a couple of years. But what a payoff!
Some evergreen trees are aleopathic and virtually nothing will survive under them. In that case, it may be best to plant some spreading plants just outside the dripline and see what makes its way into the danger zone. Vinca and ivy seem to be the hardiest that way.
Fantastic tips! I love the look of trees that have been underplanted with all sorts of goodies. Among the chief concerns/questions I have always had about this practice are root competition and light access. (Naturally, all the plants must be shade lovers, or partial shade lovers.) Also, underplanting, I assume, should only be done under mature trees; don’t plant a young maple and immediately start planting all sorts of things around its base. Is that a correct assumption? I’m assuming young trees need some ‘alone time’ at first, before underplanting should be considered.
Anyway, your garden looks so gorgeous.
-Andrew
Hi, Margaret
How about tips for weeding–the dark side of gardening? As you know, I “inherited” a flower garden that was neglected for several years, and I’m trying to tackle it in an eco-sensitive way.
Sometime I think it might be easier to dig it all up and start over or to relinquish the desire to be completely chemical free.
What strategies do you use?
If you have the chance, check out this cute video I took this weekend of the bees enjoying the poppy blossoms on the farm.
Margaret,
You mentioned not using English ivy or pachysandra or vinca. Is that because you think they are over-used or for some other reason?
@millie: since you’ve already got a table and chairs under the pine, you might have pine needles as your “floor” and just plant some big containers with shade loving annuals. Use the containers to delineate the space, to suggest the “walls” and make it clear that under the pine is an outdoor room.
@Andrew: I underplant even in the early going with new trees and shrubs, truth be told, though not with total thugs that would smother a young thing.
@Randy: Yes, I was just thinking that it would be fun to experiment with more showy, diverse things (we know that those toughies will do OK, but fun to find more ornamental mixtures that also do). So I am encouraging gardening under woody plants with mosaics of things more than just mats of a single groundcover. I reserve the big mats of a single groundcover for areas farther from the house, or along the roadside boundaries of my place, where I need weed-prevention and easier maintenance, but don’t see it everyday. In high-visibility areas, I prefer the surprise of the mixed planting that delights over a long stretch of time.
@Kathy: Another good way for Millie to go, yes, and thanks!
The planting looks great. I love all the gold foliage and the hellebores. And the primroses.
One other tip. Respect the tree roots. Use small plants and don’t dig lots of big holes. I’ve seen a couple trees killed by big garden renovations under thier canopies. Trees differ in their tolerance to disturbance. Lowland trees, like river birch or silver maple, don’t care too much. Upland trees, like red oak or sugar maple can be fussier.
Small plants in small holes makes for easier planting anyway. Have fun!
That tip # 8 about leaves…that one gets me every time. I am always so focused on flowers, that I rarely think about background foliage and what the plant will look like for the rest of the season.
Welcome, Barbara, to A Way to Garden. When people come to tour my garden at this time of year they often say this: Where are the roses? The peonies? I am decidedly stuck on leaves, maybe too much so, but I swear I get a longer-lasting succession of good weeks in the garden as a result. Many of my beds, and they are hundreds and hundreds of square feet each, rely on only foliar texture and color most weeks of the year…it doesn’t “read” in photos, sometimes, but I like it in person.
Hi, Margaret – found you through the NYT, like probably thousands more today. (congrats on that!)
I’m a garden coach who’ll be sending my clients the link to this post. Great job of explaining and showing exactly what I try to get across – and you’re using some cool plants I don’t know. I’ll be back. S
Thanks, Susan, and welcome. I look forward to hearing from your clan of clients. And from you again!
Okay, so what about a weed tree like a Norway maple?
I have been going back and forth about whether to take it out ($1400 is one estimate) or try to get something to grow under it. Oh, and the trunk grew into the old chain link fence that borders the back of our city yard.
Welcome, Nancy. Yes, Norways are weeds…but starting over will cost money and bring big change. Hmmmm…I think I’d start over. Too many nasty poly-noses each spring to weed for a lifetime when they sprout, otherwise.
Ferns are one of my favorite under plantings.
You’re right, leaves are it. Blossoms are lovely ephemeral surprises. I just underplanted an old apple tree with astilbe and hostas. It had a sorry bit of lawn before that and I got tired of getting poked in the eye by the tree when I mowed. I think the tree was trying to tell me something. I’ll send you a photo.
Paul
Margaret, Your guidelines for underplanting have given me much to think about. I had first seen the photo and comments last week when a wrote to ask about deadheading rhodies. The picture was on the back fo my mind and when I looked out to a group of hemlocks that have weeds under them, I recalled the underplanting story. YOu mentioned using materials aleady in the garden and using a ground cover with some added interest. I have woodruff a few feet away also in the shade that I will try, along with ferns and heucheras. There are many shallow roots . . . the soil have never been amended or added to. Should I top with some top soil. The hemlocks really pull the moisture . . . aside from the major weeding, anything before I start.
Thanks, Nancy
@Paul: I laughed when I read the poked in the eye thing…happens to me all the time when I mow. Good going, your new project.
@Nancy: I haven’t really gone the “adding soil” route, and if you do topdress a bit be sure it’s not very deep. A little and some compost is OK, but not more than a few inches. I think the key is making little pockets here and there and letting the plants (smallish pieces you tuck in) do the space-making themselves. I like the woodruff idea. And mulch after watering stuff in, of course.
Hi Margaret,
Excited to read your notes on underplanting trees. I have always been wary of underplanting my magnolia stellatas , having heard or read at some point that the roots don’t like to be disturbed. Right now I have one star magnolia underplanted with a shallow rooted primrose which is surrounded by forget-me-nots in May. I rip out the forget-me-nots in June, sprinkling the seeds and chucking the carcases into the woodland.
But, to date I have not planted the hostas that I can picture under that magnolia-fearing that when I need to separate the hosta, I will dig so deep that the magnolia will be unhappy. Any ideas?
I am gardening in zone 4 Cooperstown, NY
Welcome, Christine. You are correct, magnolias have lots of fleshy roots near the surface, and you don’t want to go in with a spade and start excavating wildly. As for the hostas, I put them in as small bits and pieces probably 5 years ago, and they are doing fine. When I want to divide, I will probably explore a little first with a fork or just my hands and see what the best method is tactically. I don’t worry about cutting a root or two, but I don’t plan to go in w/a spade as I say and chop up whole areas of the root system. It will be a spading fork, and with care, observing as I go. I did this under another magnolia recently, removing some very old and large hosta clumps for division and relocation, and all went very well.
Margaret, Your web site was sent to me by my young and enthuiastic garening neighbor. I’m delighted to read more about underplanting. I’ve been gardening for nearly 40 years and have wondered why using space under trees and shrubs has been overlooked. Now, you can make a difference.
To me, underplanting is such a good way of extending the growing season and making those formerly uninteresting places such pleasant surprises. I like to use shade loving perennials that like to spread and then plant them in unexpected places. Favorite plants are cornus canadensis, persicaria affinis ‘border jewel’, various epimedium, alchimilla alpina, with it’s small and white edged leaves and various gingers, to name a few. Some sun loving perennials, like some geraniums, that have a short flowering season, I use under shrubs or along a path edge because of lovely leaf shape or texture or color.
The wonderful part of gardening is the continuous learning and experimenting. And the ‘always next year’ positive outlook.
Anyway, keep up the good work.
Welcome, Molly. You name some really choice little plants (like the cornus, or bunchberry!) and it makes me want them all…uh-oh, here I go again. And thank you for your encouragement and appreciation. Come back soon.
vinca and hostas doing well under my huge pine tree.
as for another topic, i have used landscape fabric successfully to remake an out-of-control, overweeded mess…lay the fabric out, cover with woodchips so it doesn’t look like you have a parking lot, wait a year or two (which also lets the wood chips compost), move the chips section by section to cut out the fabric and plant, leaving fabric covered by chips in areas that you want to keep as pathways etc
Welcome, Chris, and thanks for visiting. I am going to copy and paste your suggestion on the landscape fabric into that conversation, too…hope that’s OK. I know others would benefit from hearing the perspective/tactic.
Thanks for this great post and discussion on underplanting. I was inspired to clean out the ivy, weeds and grass from under an eastern red cedar — cleaning it of inside dead branches and limbing up a bit too. With composted manure raked in, I am now ready to transplant various epimedium, astilbe, hosta and ferns that could stand some dividing in the fall. It feels like September already here. Perhaps, we’ll have an early autumn on Cape Cod. The critters do seem busy too.
So glad this was helpful, Donna. Was just out this weekend eyeing another area where I may shortly start following my own advice, and continue my adventures in underplanting.
It was suggested to me that I could plant tiarella /Running Tapestry under some pines and dense euonymous shrubs. So far, they are fine, although we had a fairly wet summer. I have been trying to get rid of all of the vinca in my yard – a little bit at a time. I also discovered that sweet woodruff is quite invasive and killed off lots of other plants that it encroached – so that is going too!
@Heather: The “edge” between groundcover and invasive is a tricky one. We want things to cover the ground and the mulch and form a living carpet…but we worry when they do this too well. A matter of judgment, definitely….if a plant looks too aggressive where you are, for your comfort level, yank it. I wonder to myself about various plants regularly on this score.
Have you discussed planting options under a large, old oak? Have several 120 old red oaks on my property, struggle with keeping fern garden moist in one location, would like suggestions under another oak.
Welcome, Arlene. Another topic to tackle. Good idea. Glad you have joined us!
Hi Margaret,
I was under the assumption that Hellebores are slow to establish. Can you tell me which ones you used? Also, I am a new gardener (when it comes to design). Do you have any guidelines as to where to plant which particular drifts under the apple tree and how many of each? Perhaps a post about a the basics of a garden plan?
Welcome, Lauri. Hellebores do take a few years to really bulk up, but even when they have a few flowers they are so appreciated, being early bloomers. All of the ones shown are hybrids of Helleborus orientalis, which come in a wide range of colors (pink, white, yellow, dark purple-black, wine…).
As for a design post, good idea. I would start with drifts of 5 plants minimum to get some real impact. Better to have fewer kinds of plants and more of each of your palette elements than a spotty look of too many varieties. More to come…
what am i going to do, my next neighbour evergreen shrubs have spread into my gardeni cannot grow anything in mine at moment i don’t even enjoy my garden and plus he doesn’t care as far as know, what is going to happened if i complain
Welcome, Pipelette. The issues between neighbors is always such a tricky one, I know. Unfortunately, nothing will help but confronting it head-on. I think the correct first step is a note mailed to or left for the person, kindly explaining that they might not be aware of the issue and what you would suggest as a solution, for instance:
“I’m writing about the xxx shrubbery on the border between your xxxx and my xxxx. The xxxx have grown so big on my side that they now need pruning and I wanted to be in touch with you so we can work out a plan together to tackle this. Would you like me to undertake the work, which I am happy to do, or xxxxx? Thanks in advance for your help with this.”
Or something of that manner (obviously I don’t have the particulars to fill in). In other words, to let them know so they have a chance to offer to help/fix themselves, and so when you do go cutting things back they won’t be surprised. Just inform them nicely, and imply that you will need to proceed to fix things (preferably together with them). Then a followup call or visit.
Odd thing is, it’s often that the person doesn’t realize and a nice note brings awareness and either permission or even help to repair the situation. Being silent won’t help, that’s for certain, as you already know (the evergreens keep growing!).
Margaret-
Hello! Love the site; it’s so inspiring, especially the info on shade underplanting! I’m near to you, and wondering if you could point me towards some European Ginger to purchase. I’m hoping to stop by to see your gardens on Open Days in May. Thanks!
Welcome, Karen. Windy Hill Farm in Gt. Barrington, MA, and Ward’s Nursery (also in GB) normally stock it. I saw this list on a local store website last week and includes many nearby nurseries that may be closer toyou that you might want to call. http://hammertown.com/we-love-our-local-gardeners/ It’s a widely available plant, so anyone can get it for you; definitely ask. Nice to see you, and come again soon (and to tours!).
….But I like pachysandra and vinca and English ivy. And I have huge forest of trees to underplant – and a lot of exising p. and f. an e.i. to keep making plugs with. Can I still use it, Margaret?
Yes, Pam, yes. Absolutely. It’s your garden, and the only rules are the ones you make. These are really serviceable and durable plants. Near the house, where you can peer out at it all season long (in the prime viewing spots), though, why not make some showier mosiacs?
Thanks, Margaret. That advice makes sense consider that I’m “landscaping the forest” – truly. I’ve already spent hundreds of hours … 7 years … clearing out 50 years of detritus. We’ve put in some hardscape – a path, a circle, some small statuary… and also have these three easy groundcovers off and running. There’s still a lot of ground to cover, though – literally. In the front of the house – outside my kitchen window etc., I assure you, there’s much more mosaic going on… All – very fun!
…great tips and I too am inspired. My discouragement comes from the fact that many plants won’t grow to any size in our very northern Canadian area (north of 60). I have planted many perennials which do resurface in the spring but seldom flower again, or if they do, it’s with ever-diminishing results. I do compost extensively and feed the gardens; however, as the trees continue to grow, it seems that they usurp more and more of the nutrients. Having said that, I LOVE the trees and would never part with my ‘bush’. Any suggestions for me?
Welcome, Linda. Sounds like the plants of the deep woods are going to be your friends, unless you consider perhaps not taking out but maybe selectively thinning some big trees to get a little more warmth and light to your babies. Things with more foliage interest probably than flowers, and tolerant of dry shade and deep cold. I do not know how cold we are taking, however, in winter? Near what city please?
Long time no posts–me fix. Around the time of your last entry I bought lots of end-of-season-sale huechera in wonderful colors–caramel, harvest lemon chiffon, silver scrolls, dale’s strain, bressingham hybrids, can-can, burgundy–and planted them in what I called a patchwork quilt to make a wonderful texture of colored leaves. This was way before I knew your blog existed [although I had visited your garden on last spring's open drenched day; I was one of the dripping hordes who said hello in gaping awe of what I'd just seen], and you called it mosaics. After reading how you plan mosaics of plants, I’m excited to quilt whole new areas of my shady gardens and naked under trees, so pleased with myself that I’m looking at planning in a similar way to your great eye.
Welcome back, Jane. And yes, great minds think alike (and great eyes see alike, too). :) Sounds like you are well on your way to happiness of the mosaic kind. Keep us posted!
Love your mosaic plantings.As to the gal who loves English ivy, vinca and pachysandra, some or all of these plants are on the invasive plant list for many states. How about recommending some natives instead, including native ginger which is a beautiful groundcover.
Welcome, Karlie. Asarum canadense (native ginger) is a nice plant, though not evergreen. I used to grow it but it eventually died out. Should get it again…thanks for the reminder. I also like the native pachysandra, P. procumbens, and have several giant clumps of it. See you soon again.